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Giant Shop Cabinet
Organize tons and
tons of woodworking
supplies with
room to spare.
By Tim Johnson
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 If your workshop seems cluttered and your 
workbench is always covered with stuff, 
you need this cabinet. It packs 30 cubic ft.of 
storage, enough for all of those got-to-have 
supplies, from screws to paint cans. Everything 
is readily accessible, without reaching, because 
the big pantry-style doors open wide. We’ve 
packed a room-full of storage into a cabinet the 
size of a fridge—only 30-in. wide, 24-in. deep 
and 6-ft. tall. Best of all, this cabinet is easy to 
build.You and a buddy could whip together a 
couple of these beasts over a three-day weekend.
 
  
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 1. Cut the cabinet's long pieces from the short end of 
full-sized sheets.You’ll need a buddy to help maneuver the 
ungainly sheet and keep the big offcut under control.With 
careful measuring, the cut-off piece will be exactly the right length, 
ready to be ripped to width. 
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 Click any image to view a larger version. 
  
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 2. Rabbet the cabinet sides for the top and back, 
using an auxiliary fence (Part X1) and a featherboard. 
By housing the dado set, the fence allows you to 
match the width of the rabbet to the thickness of the 
plywood top.The featherboard acts as a blade guard and 
ensures a consistent depth of cut. 
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 3. Rout perfect dadoes for the shelves 
with a 1/2-in. straight 
bit and a T-square-style 
jig made from scrap. 
Make the wide dado in 
two passes, the second 
with a spacer held 
between the jig’s fence 
and the base of 
the router. 
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 I forgot to stop! The phone 
rang just as I was ready to cut the 
stopped dado for the middle shelf. 
Distracted by the call, I went back 
to work and zipped right through 
my stop mark. 
Oh well, it’s only a shop cabinet. 
The through dado won’t hurt 
anything but my pride. Had I 
thought of it, a clamped-on stop 
block, instead of a pencil line, 
would have kept me from screwing 
up. 
Next time I’ll just let the phone 
ring. That’s safer, anyway. 
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 4. Plywood clamping brackets keep the cabinet square and let 
you glue and screw it together, one side at a time, without big pipe clamps. 
We’ve included the eight brackets you need in the plywood cutting diagrams 
(Fig.D, Parts X2). 
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 5. Gang the shelves together for dadoing. A 
backer board keeps 
the dado set from 
blowing out the backside 
of the last shelf. 
The auxiliary fence’s 
extra height keeps the 
stack steady. 
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 6. Nailing the standards is a cinch 
because the dadoed 
shelves hold them in 
place for you. Needlenosed 
pliers are much 
better nail-holding 
devises than your 
fingers! 
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 7. Clamp the doors in position before installing the hinges, using a shop-made 
stand, a perf-board spacer and 
a straightedge extending from 
the top of the cabinet. Make 
sure the edges of the door 
and cabinet are flush. 
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 8. Mount the hinges with sheet metal screws. They 
have sharp threads that grip much 
better than the puny screws supplied 
with the hinges.Alternate the screws 
between the cabinet and the door so 
their heads won’t bind. 
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